I had one day left for Vail. Actually, a half day. So I made the best of it by getting out to the mountain early. The lifts were scheduled to open at 8:30 a.m., and I was at #16 a little after 8 o’clock. This was going to be a great day.
It had snowed the night before. How much, I’m not sure. Perhaps 6 inches. It beat most days in the Midwest, so I wasn’t going to complain if it was 6 rather than 16.
I saw two young guys (perhaps college age, or slightly younger) standing just outside the lift gates. I figured that if they were waiting, the lifties were not taking paying customers yet, even as a few skiers and riders made their way to the chairs. What these people had in common were red jackets, and more importantly, membership in the ski patrol. Responsibility does have its privileges.
Eventually one “civilian” entered the gates, and scooted up to the ribbon signaling that the lift was still closed to the general public. A family followed, and I followed after them. Soon the corral was filled with eager skiers and riders. A liftie let us in a few minutes before 8:30, and for the only time this day, I shared the lift with someone.
One of the young guys was from the suburbs of Chicago. Poor fellow. While I must make do with a few 300-foot hills around home, he doesn’t even have that. His closest place for sliding is “Raging Buffalo,” a terrain park-only facility.
Spying a halfpipe off in the distance, I asked my companion if he had been in the pipe. He said no, that he was going to explore the rest of the mountain while he had the chance. Good choice, I told him.
My first run of the day was down Hunky Dory, a well-groomed trail.


It was a fun trip, and I enjoyed having smooth corduroy all to myself. I could have stayed there all day, but even the Midwest can have groomers. But it does not have the back bowls. The sun was shining and it was time to go.
THE BACK BOWLS, WITH VISION
In order to catch my afternoon flight, I had to be back at the base of the front side by noon. That left about three hours to make some runs in the back bowls, and take a quick trip to Blue Sky Basin.
I dropped into Sunup Bowl. What a difference a day makes. I had made one run there the day before, and it wasn’t that great. But this day, with the blue sky and tons of new snow, was different.
It started out with some views of other ridges, and of a new blanket of snow at the top of my path.


Living in the Midwest, I don’t get many opportunities to ride on powder. So the layer that we enjoyed this day was particularly delicious. I periodically stopped my descent long enough to look up at my tracks.

It’s easy to get sloppy with your technique in powder, since the snow offers an actual cushion to work with. Fall down? No big deal. Laugh!
Think that the slope might be too steep for your comfort? Point that board down the hill anyway; the extra snow will slow you down, and transform making turns into something simple.
The snow was not totally perfect; I could still feel crusty lumps underneath, at least towards the top of the bowl. But there’s no denying the attraction of riding in the bowl. Soon, hundreds of tracks were laid down.



I made two or perhaps three trips through the Sun Up bowl before deciding that it was time to head out to the China Bowl and then the Blue Sky Basin. The China Bowl had a very different look, that is, a more pleasant one, this time around.

I took a steeper approach down than the day before, and discovered why those orange-tipped poles are worth your attention. I was sliding over towards one set of poles, and it appeared that I was not going to be able to carry my momentum beyond them. Had I maintained my path, I would have gone through them.
But instead of doing that, I did one of those awkward snowboard moves that involves getting on your hands and knees and hopping around. Then I rode backwards (switch) to a point where I could descend without going through the gate formed by the poles.
Good thing, too, for when I got around and underneath the poles, I saw that they were marking a small cliff!
As I have said before, existing the China Bowl requires taking some cats. But here’s one good thing: my legs weren’t hurting as much as the day before.
HIKING WITH A BABY?
My effort to get on the lift serving the BSB was rewarded by some good views of the back bowls.

The lift took me to Belle’s Camp, which is the one of the peaks in the basin. There isn’t much to it: a lift house, a restroom, and a warming hut. It does offer a good view off in the distance, beyond the ski area.

It must have been the mountain air and the altitude, but during my time in Vail I never gave up an opportunity to use a restroom. The one at Belle’s Camp is a modern-looking building, but the toilet is a hole in the ground. Perhaps that’s why there was a sign in the stall that advised against putting small dogs (!) and diapers (!) down the hole. Anyone up for three hikes of 3,000 feet, up, down, and then back up again, with a baby strapped in?

I figured that I had only one trip down this “backcountry experience” before I had to make my way back to town. I took Cloud 9 all the way down. It was, unfortunately, a road / cat for most of the way. Chalk it up, again, to being unfamiliar with the area. I should have taken Big Rock, as I did once the day before. Still, it’s hard to complain about any day spent on the slopes.

Since it was late in the season, Lift #21 (Orient Express) back to the bowls was not open. That caused me some confusion as I approached the end of my Cloud 9 trip. I feared that somehow I had faithfully followed the signs towards the … wrong lift, that I would have to make another trip back up #37 to Belle’s Camp. It looked like the time I had to get ready for the trip to the airport would be VERY short. An unshowered snowboarder on a small plane? Not a good idea. Missing the flight altogether? Even worse. Fortunately, my fears were misplaced, and I caught Lift #36 (Teacup Express) back to the top of the China Bowl.
It would have been tempting to sneak in another two runs from that point. Instead, I decided to end with an endurance test, down Riva Run, which at 4.
5 miles, is the longest trail around. I missed the top of Riva (again!) and instead got in an unexpected mogul field on Zot (black), which is just above the cliff bands that I saw from Lift #4 (Mountaintop). I did catch the bottom half of Riva after taking a cat (Transmontane). It wasn’t the most enjoyable trip down, but I had made it.
As it turns out, once I had showered and had packed up everything, I had 30 minutes to spare before my van came. Should have made another run!
Or maybe not.
BOTTOM LINE
If you have the chance to visit Vail, especially in the late season when the crowds are nil, do it. Take a buddy if you can; ride alone if you must. Like Mammoth and Snowmass, it’s huge, and it offers a variety of conditions for all skiers and riders. If you’re at least an intermediate rider, drop into the bowls, especially on powder days. If you’re comfortable on catwalks, extend your trip into the Blue Sky Basin.
Buy tickets online, in advance, to save some dough. Pack a lunch as much as possible to save on meals that are expensive, even by mountain standards.
Most of all, get ready for some good times.