(This entry may be overly technical for some readers. You’ve been warned. Also, it’s not necessarily useful for everyone. The points here were derived from an analysis of my own riding style, which may not resemble yours. For one thing, I ride “goofy,” or right foot forward. That already puts me in the minority of snowboarders.)
Use Foot steering. This technique, which is available only if the board has some flex, provides a feathered approach to edge change. It works on both toe to heel and heel to toe turns. Whichever direction you are turning, make the change in your leading foot first, and your trailing foot slightly thereafter. Think of it in 4/4 time: 1, 2: leading toe, trailing toe; leading heel, trailing heel. At the moment I cannot remember what benefit this delivers, but I know that it works. Nobody in my lessons in the Midwest told me about it; I get the impression that it’s a relatively new idea.
Put your knee out. When turning toeside to heelside, push out the leading knee and ankle, and even the toes. By doing this, you are putting more weight over the toeside edge, thus helping the natural sidecut of the board take over and lead you into a turn.
Which brings us to the next point …
As you start to start the toeside to heelside turn, stand up. Why? One, it makes sure that your weight is stacked up properly—shoulder, hips, ankles aligned. Two, it gives you a starting position from which to put the knee out. If you are already in a crouched position, how are you going to get the advantage of sticking out your knee?
Remember, if you’re traversing on the heelside, your weight is going to be on the heelside of the board. And if you then want to turn and ride on the toeside, you’re going to end up with the weight on the toeside of the board.
How do you get there? One way is to stand up, and shift the weight from the heelside of the board to neutral, to (after steering) the toeside of the board.
Steer, then edge. This is of particular use on toeside to heelside turns. There’s that slight moment of fear, when the board is going down the fall line. Then, and only then, do you start the turn (e.g., stick your knee out of the leading foot—which will cause the board to turn from the tip backwards).
Keep your hands low. Avoid the temptation to “fly” with your hands raised high in the air. Yes, you can use it to point in the right direction. But it comes at a price. First, you burn energy by holding your arms up. Two, it robs you of the chance to regain your balance by lifting your arms up in the air when it is required.
By contrast, the school has two figures of speech to describe the practice in-the-air practice. Two hands in the air: bringing home the groceries. One hand in the air: the mystery date.
Try the steering wheel drill: think of a steering wheel at the tip of the board, and keep your hand down there, by the tip, moving the board.
Align your shoulders, hips, and ankles over each other while you are traversing.
Be 50/50. It’s better to lean towards the tip of the board than towards the tail of the board. But it’s better to keep your weight centered from tip to tail. One advantage: it keeps the quads of your leading leg from getting overused.
Tip to the inside of the turn, not the outside of the turn. Lean into the hill rather than down the hill.
Match edge angle with speed. During one of the drills, I washed out on a toeside to heelside turn. Why? I was using a high edge angle, but my speed wasn’t fast enough to support it. A combination of high angle and low speed means that you are pushing the board out of the snow—not what you want to do.
Use subtle movements. Make “progressive” movements, not sudden ones. Think of it as analogue rather than digital. Gradual, not on/off.
When riding toeside, do not be too quick to look downhill. Look where you are going. So when I am traversing toeside, look toward the tip, and don’t be so quick to look over your shoulder to look downhill. That will cause your board’s tail to … turn in the wrong way.
Take advantage of your stance. For me, the toeside to heelside turn is easier to do than the heelside to toeside turn. Why? Because, with a moderately forward stance (20 degrees), and a goofy stance, my binding pushes me that way anyway. So think “1-2-3” on heelside to toeside, but only “1” on toeside to heelside turns.
As you are traversing heelside, a slight look uphill will slow your speed. This happens (or can happen) by using the radius of the board to head (a little bit) back up the hill.
Overall impression: I started out making something like jump-turns on heelside to toeside turns (because my weight was too far towards the heelside when I started to make the turn.) By making a few small adjustments, especially standing up as I start the heelside to toeside turn, I made more graceful, smoother turns.